Analogue
Using hands to show the time, not LCD display.
Automatic
Automatic watches are exactly the same as mechanical except they do not need winding as long as they are being worn on a wrist. The movement of the wrist is sufficient to move an oscillating weight which keeps the mainspring wound up.
Base metal
A non precious metal such as brass.
Battery
Also known as cell. The battery number is found on the case back. The volt in a quartz analogue watch is 1.5V. The volt in a digital watch is 3.0V.
Bezel
The ring on the outside of the watch case around the dial. The bezel can be rotated.
Bi-colour
The metal is the same throughout but the plating finish juxtaposes white and yellow side by side on the bracelet.
Bracelet
A metal bracelet which holds the watch to the wrist. Made up of links which allow the bracelet to articulate to mould itself comfortably to any wrist.
Bracelet sets
Bracelet sets are matching watch and bracelet designs, usually for ladies evening wear.
Buckle
The fastening for a strap, consisting of a rim and tongue. The rim of a Rotary buckle incorporates the winged wheel design.
Dial or Face
The dial sits on top of the movement and is one of the most important ways of giving a watch its own distinctive personality.
Duo Time or Travelcentric
A watch has two movements instead of one. Useful to keep time in two different time zones when travelling.
Electroplating
The process of applying a decorative finish to the base material. Electroplating can be used for gold plating, rhodium plating or palladium plating. The process involves suspending the watch in a solution of the chosen metal which then has an electric current passed through it. Electrolysis occurs, causing the metal from the salts in the solution to stick to the watch, forming a complete new layer. The amount of metal deposited is referred to as number of microns of plating.
Hallmarks
The authorised stamp impressed on gold or silver watches. Hallmarking has been in existence for nearly 700 years and can therefore justly claim to be one of the oldest forms of consumer protection. Under the British hallmarking system precious metal articles are tested independently of the manufacturer at one of the official assay offices at London, Birmingham, Sheffield or Edinburgh.
Hands
Hands come in different styles: - Sword hands - Straight flat hands - Dauphine hands - Breguet hands
Keeper
The leather loops on a leather watch strap which keeps the end of the strap in place once it has been fastened.
Lug
Metal projections at either side of the case to hold the spring bar onto which the bracelet or strap is attached.
Measurements
ATM = Atmosphere (measurement of pressure) M = Meters (measurement of water depth)
Mechanical
A mechanical watch is powered by a mainspring in a housing called a barrel. The mainspring when wound by hand, unwinds very slowly, transmitting power to a system of interconnected gearwheels called the gear train. This in turn is connected to the escapement mechanism consisting of a wheel and a pallet fork which transmits impulses to the balance wheel, making it oscillate. This is the element which makes the characteristic ticking noise. There is a further train which moves the hands of the watch.
Mineral glass
Hardened watch glass (or crystal) that is scratch resistant.
Movement
The complete unit inside the watch that makes it work; sometimes called calibre or modular.
Nickel content
Many people are becoming allergic to nickel which was once used underneath gold-plating to smooth out imperfections in the base metal. Ever since nickel was found to be an allergenic substance, the amount of nickel used has been reduced. Now one or two layers of copper are used underneath the gold or rhodium plate to do the job that nickel used to. All Rotary watches are well within EEC guidelines but no watch can be called 100% nickel free.
Power cell
Another term for battery.
Rotary Reversible TM watch
Rotary ReversibleTM watch
Rotary ReversibleTM
A complicated case design with a practical raison d'etre, (first and famously invented by Jaeger le Coultre to protect the glass and dial from damage on the polo field or hunting field) where the case can be reversed so that the case back is uppermost.
Sapphire Glass
Sapphire crystals are made from synthetic sapphire and are practically unscratchable.
Swiss Made
In order to qualify as "Swiss Made" a watch must have been assembled, adjusted and subjected to official tests in Switzerland. At least 50% of the value of all parts, and its movement must have been made in Switzerland.
Sterling silver
Contains at least 92.5% pure silver.
Stainless Steel
A dense, extremely durable, and rust-resistant metal, which does not require electroplating. It can be given either a matt or a polished finish or a combination of the two.
Strap
A leather, simulated leather, plastic or nylon band that holds the watch to the wrist. All Rotary watch straps are made from plain leather which is then embossed or printed with patterns to imitate animal skins.
Spring Bar
A metal pin, telescopic in design is used on most straps to fasten them to the watch case. The spring bar slots into the lugs of a watch case.
Screw down crown
Watches which are water resistant for 100m and above have screw down crowns to prevent moisture entering the case.
Water resistant
Rotary watches marked "5ATM" or "50m" are resistant to water during exercises such as swimming for short periods, and are tested to International Standard IS02281; these watches are not suitable for diving. Models designed for scuba diving are marked "10ATM" or "100m", alternatively "20ATM" or "200m" and are tested to International Standard IS06425. The movement may rust if moisture enters the case as a result of disregarding these markings.
Watch Terminology is sponsored by Rotary
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